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Ikat Sari
20th Century, Orissa
Black with red border. Single Ikat.
Ikat Technique
In the ikat technique, which is also called tie and dye method, the designs in various colors are formed on a fabric either by the warp threads or the weft threads (single ikat) or by both (double ikat). In single ikat fabrics, the warp or weft threads which are tied and dyed as per design are to be positioned accurately in proper sequence in weaving as required by the design and its color scheme.
In India, the production of ikat fabrics is mainly concentrated in the states of Gujarat, Andhra Pradesh and Orissa. The ‘bandhas’ or ikat fabrics of Orissa have a distinct native identity. In contrast to the imposing, mosaic like appearance of the ‘patola’ of Gujarat and geometrical forms of Andhra Pradesh, the appearance of designs and forms of Orissa have a soft curvilinear quality. Also, the effect achieved by the addition of extra weft threads woven beside the ikat areas, gives the ‘bandhas’ a uniquely rich texture.